2019 03 09 - 03 14 Williams Arizona and the Grand Canyon

Gila Bend, Arizona. Friday, 8 March 2019

As we left Gila Bend on Friday, 8 March 2019 the weather began to change from the sunny and warm 70s. The further away from Phoenix the more cloudy and windy until we needed our jackets stashed in the back seat. By the time we arrived in Williams, Arizona about 40 miles west of Flagstaff it was getting dark from the clouds and starting to snow. Good times.

Grand Canyon, Arizona. Saturday, 9 March 2019

A short walk or shuttle ride from our RV site to the Williams Grand Canyon train station. The Wild West Show starts at 9:15am on a sunny, cool (20 degrees), breezy morning. Shoot out at the...train depot? Just a little entertainment before boarding. 

We will journey 130 miles roundtrip from Williams to the South Rim along a rail line that dates back to 1901. Out the windows the terrain changes from high desert to prairie, prairie to ponderosa pine. Fun fact: if you scratch the outer bark of a ponderosa pine and it smells like vanilla. The ponderosa's change color as they get older, acquiring its reddish bark when they are around 100 years old. There are several classes of car and service. Pullman, Coach, First, Observation, Luxury Parlor and Luxury Dome. There is also a cafe car. 

Entertainment on the train. A few songs, some jokes and a couple stories as we pass through the desert portion of the ride. 

Train car and first view of Grand Canyon from the train. 

Ride an original 1923 Harriman-style coach car with seats that flip so families can face each other or a 1950s Streamliner with extra large windows. After 2.5 hours it was "Goodbye" train and "hello" canyon selfie. It was a relaxing ride and we didn't have to worry about parking. Disembarking the train, we boarded our tour bus for the drive to Maswik Lodge for lunch. To the west of the Bright Angel Lodge, it is a smaller facility off the heavily traveled Village Loop Drive. 

Our first tour stop after lunch was clear across to the east side of the rim. The Yaki Point is closed to private cars so only tour vehicles are permitted. It is considered one of the best points for sunrise and sunset canyon views. There is no way to capture the feeling of grandeur and impossible size at the Grand Canyon.

There are several areas where guardrails are necessary for everyone's safety, especially since there has been significant rain and snow which loosens the exposed, cantilevered rocks which could be are loose in the ground and could dump the unwary into the nearly a mile into the depths of the canyon. Bob has not transgressed. 

At ten miles across, it takes a good pair of binoculars to get a more up close view. And a winter coat with two layers underneath, gloves, scarf and watch cap for the driving winds. It was great to have such a bright, sunny day to aid in keeping warm. And don't forget the long underwear and double socks. 

Tour bus was very comfortable and we met a lady on-board who had left her Friday conference and driven 8 hours to Williams for a short night's sleep before boarding the train. She really wanted to see the Grand Canyon before returning home. 

Several female elk were seen along our route trying to forage on the little available before spring actually arrives and the park.

This mule deer is looking very healthy. 

There are plenty of ravens in Arizona so I was not particularly excited...but ravens don't have such long primary feathers at the wingtips. As I watched through the binoculars, I noticed the white wing patches above and below. When the bird turned and flew towards me it was obvious that the beak was very light colored, appearing to be yellow. Not like a raven. As it flew below the rim I could see the wing number tags confirming that this was a California Condor. So exciting...and a rare sighting. Originally, 260 captive bred condors were released into the Grand Canyon. Only 90 remain. Many have returned to California. Bob found this condor's number to discover that (s)he is one of a mated pair. Sadly, few of our fellow travelers cared much about this unique sight and ignored us as we discussed our thoughts. This made our trip completely worthwhile.  

The North Rim is about 10 miles away, over a thousand feet higher in elevation than we are. That's the reason there is nothing to see beyond the edge of the rim. At this time of year it is still locked in winter until May 15 when the roads reopen. 

The Hopi House, a National Historic Landmark, has American Indian arts and crafts for sale and canyon views from the upper floor windows. 

Delicious cold spring water after standing outside for an hour was refreshing. Springs and seeps are critical natural resources providing drinking water to wildlife and Park visitors in an otherwise arid environment. It also maintains the riparian areas that offer refuge for terrestrial wildlife.  

El Tovar Hotel is another National Historic Landmark, limestone and pine hotel built in 1905. Rooms and suites are individually decorated in styles ranging from modern to traditional.

The Grand Canyon Train Depot is one of the oldest log train depots in the US and began receiving passengers on 17 September 1901. Naturalist John Muir later commended the railroad for its limited environmental impact. And on the return trip to Williams we got more entertainment. 

Red Butte, located in the Kaibab National Forest is known to the Havasupai nation as Wii'i Gdwiisa, "clenched fist mountain" and is regarded as a sacred site. 

The San Francisco Peaks with a fresh layer of snow. A volcanic range just north of Flagstaff. The highest summit in the range is Humphrey's Peak. It is also the highest point in Arizona at 12,633 feet. Somewhat higher than the 1,550 feet of Campbell Hill in Ohio. 

The train is being raided by those ruffians from the morning shoot out. These bandits are notorious for robbing the train passengers.

Even with their faces covered by bandanas it was easy to recognize these harrowing villains.

We were lucky to have the sheriff on board who served up justice.

Davenport Hill Trail, Kaibab National Forest, Arizona - Sunday, 10 March 2019

After our long day away from home, the dogs needed some outdoor time. Dogtown Lake Campground was the trail-head. The logging road was a little rough. In fact, it was rutted everywhere with rills of snow melt flowing down to the lake. 

Groves of Ponderosa pines limited sun exposure on the snow. The ground was so soggy we had barely gone 50 feet before the path disappeared under water. 

The road itself was flooded. We were thankful we had the 4 wheel drive available on the truck but what a splattered mess on the tires and running boards. 

The dogs still needed a long walk so we just wandered around the town of Williams. Another section of historic Route 66 runs through the entire town. 

The nearby mountain is named after a local man, William Sherley Williams, "Old Bill Williams". Born in North Carolina and lived for 62 years mostly in the wilderness. He spent the winter of 1832-33 around Williams, which was named after "Old Bill" by locals in 1881. 

Grand Canyon, Arizona - Monday, 11 March 2019

Took the dogs for the drive back to the east side of the South Rim to explore the Desert View Watchtower. A 360-degree view of the canyon, Colorado River and surrounding landscape. Another National Historical Landmark. 

The tower was the last of the series of visitor concession structures created by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter to look like it was built exclusively with native stone. It is 70-feet high, four story structure, completed in 1932. The tower was designed to resemble as ancient Pueblo watchtower. The base was intentionally designed to convey a partly ruinous appearance as it rises from a rubble foundation. 

Bob celebrates the 100th Birthday of the Grand Canyon.

Lets go up. The staircase up the tower rises as an open shaft with windows that let beams of light into the staircase. At each floor, the walls are decorated with murals and petroglyph-style decorations. 

The interior of the tower with its decorations. The rock art paintings are copies of now-destroyed petroglyphs at Abo, New Mexico. This is a vertical panoramic view from bottom to top. 

Some additional close-ups.

And amazing views. 

Rooftop access on the Tower looking down on the Kiva.

View from a top level tower window. 

At the top. Well, almost the top. The wooden ladder behind me is not accessible to visitors.

Despicable Bob, shrinking and grabbing the tower. 

But he put it back.

The puppies got to leave the truck and explore the rim too. They were almost as bad as the tourists trying to go beyond the railings and fences. Hopping from one rock to another or posing for pictures in precarious locations are the most dangerous activities. 

Tori was enjoying the view. But I was keeping a grip on her leash. She can be a little too nosey at times and this is not the time.

On the left is the Vishnu Basement rock and Hance Rapids, one of the most challenging whitewater rapids along the Colorado River. They are Class 7 to 8 whitewater. We passed on that adventure. The right photo is the more placid part of the river though the turns sometimes are a test during spring rains and snow melt.  

Ravens are everywhere. They soar on thermals over the Canyon but more often we watched them riding the high winds, sometimes in pairs, like they are competing with each other, twisting and turning, diving and rolling, just having fun.

Away from the South Rim we drove to the Tusayan Pueblo Ruin. This large kiva was used for ceremonial activities. Encircling about half of the interior is a bench for participants. On the opposite side is a low opening in the stone wall for ventilation of the fire pit in the center. Originally posts along the bench supported the upper structure. The walls and roof were covered with brush and mud. Access was made by ladder through a hole in the roof.

Large spaces are family rooms while smaller spaces at each end are for storage. Access was made similarly to the kiva by ladder through a hole in the roof of each room. This ruin is one of more than 4000 archaeological sites within Grand Canyon National Park. It is believed this site was constructed around A.D. 1185.

Many of the daily activities took place outdoors in the plaza, the center of community life in front of the living area rooms. The plaza faced south allowing for good winter exposure to the sun and a view of the San Francisco peaks which were considered sacred. Plaza activities included women grinding corn, others cooking and children at play. The men supplemented food with wild game and may have had some role cultivating the farm area. Dams and terraces may have served to catch and hold what little rain fell in this area.

There is always a haze covering but the varying striations are visible denoting different soil compositions and making dating the layers easier. The redder the soil the more iron. Light colors generally denote limestone.  

Resting at our last pull-out, the Grandview Point.

Grand Canyon Railway RV Park, Williams, Arizona - Wednesday, 13 March 2019

The last few minutes of daylight through the clouds.

Next morning and well, criminy! Really, Arizona? Where's the love of sunshine and warm temperatures?

Even the cute watchdogs are wanting winter to just go away. Guess we shouldn't complain too much considering what we have seen across the country. 

2019 02 25 - 03 08 Gila Bend, Phoenix area and then...

Gila Bend, Arizona - 25 February 2019 through 8 March 2019

Our 5 week stay in Gila Bend placed us in one of the best run campgrounds we have found in our travels. A wonderfully helpful staff which included an Activities Director, Steve, who has daily and weekly events scheduled for those who just want to "hang out" in camp plus, for the more adventurous, trips to other areas around the Sonora Desert.  

For months the dogs have not seen, much less felt the cool softness of real grass under their paws except for one place in San Antonio which had artificial grass which Dakota would hardly even walk on. Dirt and gravel were de rigueur at all the others. Three separate corrals, two were mostly grass (watered every night to keep it lush and full). 

There was a lot of space in the campground to walk the dogs. But outside the fencing out the back of the campgrounds are wide open State Land Trust acres. There are tire tracks going in two directions. The first time we used these tracks it led a mile out directly towards the train tracks. Boring. The tracks to the right (above) which we walked several times for over three miles one way. The dogs were in heaven since we could leave them completely off leash as long as we watched them VERY closely. There are a lot of holes dug in the soil which can house some really dangerous things. Mostly rattlesnakes and scorpions which do not like to be disturbed. We were lucky not to encounter any of those holes inhabited. The owner did have to remove a rattler from the park during our stay. 

Practically every plant out here has at least one hole at its base and while spaniels are not as scent tuned as beagles, our girls are curious to the nth degree. All the different cacti present all different cautions; needles, hooks and those nasty little hairlike, impossible to see barbs that grab on and won't let go. Oh how they love soft, fluffy dog hair. 

Our home was right beside the pathway leading from the other site rows to the Recreation Center so we always had people passing by to and from the heated pool, laundry, patio and whatever was happening inside the Center. 

The tie-breaking game for the Gila Bend KOA World Championship Baseball Toss game took place on the patio between the two local teams. Loads of fun and trash talking going on.   

Scottish Highland Games, Phoenix, Arizona - Saturday, 2 March 2019

"RELEASE THE HOUNDS!" On our way to the Douglas tent we happened upon a large contingent of Irish Wolf Hounds. Always very calm and well behaved, they seemed to be everywhere. 

The beginning of the Parade of Clans with the Bagpipe and Drum Marching Band. 

We had located the Douglas tent and joined the rather sparse clan mates in the parade. Fortunately, some additional members arrived before we set foot on the parade grounds so we could all give a rousing salute of "A Douglas, A Douglas". Afterwards, we went looking for some fun, kilt socks and kilt pin.  

The ever popular Caber Toss. Varying in length from 16 to 22 feet this traditional athletic event always draws a crowd. He was successful. Look at the height. Other events included the hammer toss (a metal ball attached to a wooden handle), shot or stone put using natural stones, wheat sheaf (tossing a burlap bag of wheat over a bar using a pitchfork). 

It looks like she is tossing a potted palm but it's a weight attached to a ring. There is no spinning allowed to get it over the bar. Men also compete in the Weight over Bar event. Dozens of dancers competed for trophies. And the long legged Scotty amused some and frightened others as he made his way through the crowds.  

Goodyear Ballpark, Goodyear, Arizona - Monday, 4 March 2019

Spring Training Home of the Cincinnati Reds and Cleveland Indians, the intimate confines of Goodyear Park west of Phoenix was our first ever Spring Training game. 

The field is no more than 20 feet from the stands and the fans get a close-up view of their team. Before the game, many of the players will come over to sign autographs, have pictures taken and talk to the fans, especially the kids in attendance. Some former players also attend Spring Training games, like on this day Eric Davis, former center fielder, nicknamed Eric the Red. Clever. 

You have to be on your toes at these games once the action starts. The closeness of the field means that foul balls can get into the crowds in two seconds. Don't be distracted by the almost clear blue skies and warm temperatures. Keep your gloves handy and your eyes on the ball. 

Without the full compliment of its starting roster, the Reds fell on this day to the Chicago Cubs. Lack of solid pitching and a couple of misjudged fly balls was all it took to have the home fans heading for the exits in the 7th inning. We enjoyed our time at the game and even found a couple of our campground neighbors in our section. 

Gila Bend KOA, Gila Bend, Arizona - Friday, 8 March 2019

Late yesterday afternoon about two dozen bicycle riders arrived for an over night stay in the campgrounds. Pitching tents all over the playground area, cleaning and repairing their bikes and getting a few showers taken before dark. They arrived with their own catering service trucks and other vans for storage. Their signage said "Coast to Coast" so I presume they are on a very long bike ride. I heard they go between 50 and 80 miles per day depending on the road conditions. Across the country is about 3500 miles.  

Packing up and moving on. The clouds got here quickly. The elevation at Gila Bend was under 800 feet. A 3-1/2 hour drive to Williams, Arizona. The elevation at our new location was over 6,000 feet. Our gateway to the Grand Canyon National Park. 
The next blog will be all about our Grand Canyon adventures. Stay tuned.