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Monday, November 19, 2018

2018 11 02 - 11 12 Waco, Senora and Terlinqua.

Mayborn Natural Science Museum, Waco, Texas - 2 November 2018


Following up on our last piece where we had gone to the Mammoth National Monument. The original members of the nursery herd of females and juveniles have been removed and transported to this Museum for further research.   

Along with other specimens of other animals. This is the skull of Blue Whale, the largest baleen whale.


Underneath my feet are casts of the mammoth bones found and removed from the outside dry river bed.  

Some plains native tribes built these layers grass tepees.

A mammoth skull and tusks. 

Caverns of Sonora RV Park, Sonora, Texas - 5 November 2018


This is a very strange combination of tourist attraction, the Caverns of Sonora, and an RV park which seems to have been established so cavern customers could stay right next to the Caverns. Interesting idea but this is so far out of the way in the middle of Texas that only a couple groups visited each day. 


We were visited each day by a fairly large group of deer. They would come through camp several times a day, sometimes leaping over the fencing or finding a whole to walk through. We had over a dozen, including five bucks and several yearlings. The camp owners had installed a hanging corn sheller and some mornings they would drop corn on the ground which really brought the entire herd running. It was very noisy so the deer could hear it very very far away. 


Besides the deer, they also had a few peacocks roaming around. 


Such great weather for sitting outside with the dogs. Dakota was very excited each time the deer would show up. 
Sonora to Terlingua, Texas - 6 November 2018
Bob drove the first leg until we stopped at the Lyndon B. Johnson Park for a break and lunch. Since we were driving over a total of four hours and we had received our Certificates from the RV Driving School, I figured it was time to give this a whirl. Not much to this hauling around a 40 foot, 16000+ pound house on wheels. Anyone driven through Texas? Long, long stretches of roads, 2 and 4 lanes, with nothing on either side except barbed wire fences, scrub and a whole lot of dirt (not soil). 


Every so often there is a hill, just to break up the monotony.  A fun fact about our fancy truck is that it tells you how many more miles are available for the amount of fuel remaining in the tank. I am cruising down the road and notice the miles to go is about 5 miles less than the remaining fuel. Assuming we didn't drive up any hills, it's all good. 
Oh, look. A hill we have to drive which will take more fuel. A year ago we went through this scenario while driving in New Mexico. Did not leave me with a good feeling then and still doesn't. Now we just have to hope we can make it to the next town. Once again, good luck is with us. 

Big Bend RV Resort, Terlingua, Texas - 6 November 2018


Just outside the Beg Bend National Park on the Rio Grande River. It's a combination of Motel, RV park, restaurant and food store. Going through the normal set-up procedures when the bedroom slide stops half-in and half-out. No amount of coaching will get it to move and then the motor shuts off. This is not a good feeling but fortunately we can access the bedroom and the bathroom even though it's a squeeze down the hall. 

When Bob came in he sat on the couch and opened the shade only to find himself staring straight out through a broken window. While driving we thought a passing dump truck may have thrown a rock. But it was quite a shock. 

Bob did a nice job wrapping the screen and a piece of cardboard to block the opening. We still have the problem that out in the boondocks of southwestern Texas, there are no RV dealers or service companies that can do this repair until we arrive in Tucson, Arizona a few days before Thanksgiving.  


After such a stressful day with these problems and no solutions in sight, we decided on drinks and dinner at La Kiva, a local restaurant built underground. Quirky place made even more so by the Dia de Los Muertos decorations. 


Morning in Terlingua.


Afternoon in Terlingua.
Big Bend National Park, Texas - 8 November 2018


In the Parks roads end at the Rio Grande, the boundary between the US and Mexico. The Chisos Mountains erupt from the vast desert floor. 


As we passed through the Entrance Gate we noticed a sign advising drivers to watch for tarantulas crossing the roadway. Sure enough, we noticed this one just starting to cross as we approached. We did our civic duty by helping this one to the other side of the road.  


We are heading to the River. Our best choice for today is the Santa Elena Canyon, which is only half a canyon on the US side, on the northern side. Its south canyon wall towers above Mexico.
When we reached the parking area, the next species became readily apparent. Walking Sticks, like these two, were on the walls, walkways and hanging off many of the plants. Down by the river, the desert gave way to a more lush, oasis of green. 


Santa Elena Canyon between US on the right and Mexico on the left. The Rio Grande is being fed by the Terlingua Creek on the right.  


The Rio Grande is milky looking water loaded with silt that scours the sides of the canyons and can be heard on the sides of the canoes and kayaks that ply it. 


9 November 2018 Returning to Big Bend, this time to the east side of the park, the mountains in the distance are capped with clouds.  

Back to Santa Elena Canyon, Big Bend National Park, Texas - 11 Nov 2018




Carrying my shoes and wading the Terlingua Creek to get to the path along the US side of the canyon. The water was cool and milky but hardly any current to make it hazardous. The challenging part is that tall bank behind me which has to be climbed. The silty mud is very slippery when wet so there is a pole with a rope tied to it. But how does that help if you can't reach the rope?


Bob has a stowaway from the other side. 


Most will think this is a Prickly Pear Cactus but look closely because there are no pricklies. This is called a Blind Prickly Pear. 

There was a short section of path of rough 1-2 inch gravel but this is more to my liking. Soft sand, shady and cool. 

A couple of outcrops into the river but even with that advantage I could not see through the canyon. 


This area of Texas was underwater millions of years ago when a sea bisected the continent. The river eroding the canyon walls plus the shifting and falling stone exposes interesting fossils. 

Still embedded in a fallen rock some of these actually resemble vertebrae.

Just beyond this protrusion is the end of the pathway. The stone wall face reached the river bank and eliminated any further trail.
And wading back across the Terlingua Creek.


Canyon Campground Trail, Hot Springs and Fossil Site - 12 November 2018



No matter how short this tunnel is, there is no getting our house through it. Good thing we didn't want to camp here. Nothing over 20 feet. 

At the back of the campground is a short trail that heads over a wet, boggy area. Lucky for us they have constructed a very nice raised walkway. We were not hunting this Wilson's Snipe when Bob saw him move after I had walked past.  

Chilly and very windy today. Hiking boots, thick socks, multiple shirts, winter coat, scarf and hat (hold on to it). We stopped at the Boquillas Canyon Trail. There is a Port of Entry for crossing into Mexico on our side but crossing the river is in row boats or canoes. Plus proper documentation is required.
Not sure if these are legitimate but we can see a canoe and several guys across the river. Or wading is also allowed but not recommended if the river level is high. The only way to get to Boquillas Del Carmen is by horse, mule or burro. Passports are not required for river trips, but stepping onto the Mexican bank, then returning to the US side constitutes an illegal border crossing. 



Is that a palm tree? A former resort was built near a natural hot springs along the river. Also found along the path to the hot springs were petroglyphs on the rock walls. The springs are constant at 105 degrees but frequently is submerged by rising river waters. By the time we had walked back to the truck there were at least 10 people who were interested in joining the 6 folks already soaking. 

A single lane road barely was wide enough for the truck to pass through without scraping something on the protruding rocks. Glad we don't have a dually. 


One thing we never got to do was stargazing. Even if the skies were clear during the day as the sun started to set behind the mountains the clouds would roll in and block out everything.  

It was getting colder but we had not been to the fossil exhibit. This is an outdoor exhibit with the winds gusting. No mammoths here. These are dinosaur fossils (or casts). One interesting fact is that large vehicles were not permitted to drive off road to the dig sites. The picture behind me shows the removal of a leg bone by being dragged in a canoe by a pair of horses. The distant Chisos Mountains are remnants of volcanoes. Dinosaur remains are brought to the surface by the rivers and streams.  

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