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Tuesday, January 28, 2020

2019 11 27 - 12 13 Laughlin, AZ, Tuzigoot, Montezuma Castle and Well, Jerome, Sedona, Clarkdale, Cottonwood

Don Laughlin's Classic Car Museum, Laughlin, Nevada - 27 November 2019
The 3rd floor above the gambling area of the Riverside Casino is this exhibit featuring 80 of the world's most distinctive automobiles. A rotating collection of antique, classic and unique autos assembled from private collections, including Don Laughlin himself. One of our favorites was the Mustang convertible. An incredible assortment of the historic - and the notorious - some featured in Hollywood blockbusters, including a decrepit motorcycle owned by Steve McQueen, muscle cars and horseless carriages. 

Arrived in Clarkdale Arizona - 4 December 2019
A rather small, but well tended resort and newly opened, the Rain Spirit RV Resort became our home for the next month as we spent the month of December here for the holidays and visiting with family.

Tuzigoot National Monument, Clarkdale, Arizona - 11 December 2019
This ruin crowns the hilltop behind the RV resort and is visible from our site if nothing too tall parks behind us. And because we could even take the dogs with us (though not inside the museum). Built by the Sinagua people, the pueblo was a major trading destination for other tribes for hundreds of miles around. The Sinagua farmed the surrounding Verde River area and were also known for their artistry in weaving and pottery. The pueblo has been reconstructed based on the foundations and includes a plaza for community gatherings, a Citadel or tower room and extensive living and storage rooms. This is a multi-story structure of over 100 rooms most of which were accessed from the top.
The Citadel has a 360 degree line of sight for keeping watch. The east side path shows the extensive acres along the curve of the Verde River that once were farmed to feed the Sinagua. 

Montezuma Castle National Monument, Camp Verde, Arizona - 13 December 2019
A well preserved, multi-story, 20 room cliff dwellings of the Sinagua people who inhabited this riparian "oasis" along the Beaver Creek for over 400 years. This ruin was declared a National Monument by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906 while celebrating passage of the Antiquities Act.  
The limestone cliffs allowed erosion from rain and sand to create a large overhanging "cave" which has provided excellent cover for the cliff dwellings to retain their structure. Visitors were permitted to climb ladders to view the structures interiors until 1951 when it was determined that too much destruction was occurring. 
Narrow openings kept out the rain and wind while also providing protection from other less friendly tribes. The first permanent settlements here resembled those of the Hohokam culture between 700 and 900 CE (Common Era). But these large pueblos began being built by 1150 and were occupied until the 1400s. 
Top photo is a diorama showing the interior of the cliff dwellings. The Beaver Creek runs along the cliffs. The Sinagua people would open the river banks during the spring to allow water to flow from the riverbed to the fields away from their dwellings. This canal irrigation allowed them to grow corn, squash, beans, and cotton (which is still grown in Arizona).
Montezuma Well National Monument, Rimrock, Arizona - 13 December 2019
Surprise! A lake in the middle of the desert. A limestone sink is still fed by underground, continuously flowing springs at a rate of 1,500,000 gallons each day. There is an outlet off to the right which keeps the water at a constant level. The Well measures 386 feet in diameter. Even during a severe drought the volume rarely changes.
Around the outer edges are two different styles of housing. Above the water's edge are mortared cliff dwellings tucked under an overhang. Down near the water's edge are several pit houses which were more accessible to visitors and therefore, in less pristine condition. Advertisement stenciled on the wall from the late 1800s. 
Like those dwelling at Montezuma Castle, the inhabitants here were Sinagua, farming the area from 1125 through 1400. 
The water is highly carbonated and contains high levels of arsenic. Five endemic species survive within the Well's waters. There are several levels of water within the Well each of which harbors these different species: a diatom, springsnail, a water scorpion, an amphipod and a leech. While the carbonation and arsenic don't appear to harm the ducks, it seemed to us these contaminants would have impacted the health of the Sinagua. 
Used for irrigation since the 8th century, this prehistoric canal is preserved and portions of the original seven mile route are still used today. Geologically, the Well is similar to "cenotes" of the Yukatan peninsula in Mexico. The concentration of carbon dioxide, at more than 80 times typical freshwater, and to a lesser extent its alkalinity, has prevented development of any fish. Many birds species feed on the other types of aquatic life. 
Along side of the canal is the Wet Beaver Creek. 
Back home at Rain Spirit. A wonderful end to a great day. 

 Jerome, Arizona - 16 December 2019
Once the wickedest town in the west, Jerome was born a copper mining town located at the top of Cleopatra Hill, growing from a settlement of tents into a roaring mining community at an elevation of 5,066 feet. In its heyday, Jerome was home to more than 10,000 people in the 1920s, including the Little Daisy Mine owned by James S. Douglas, Jr. In 1914, Douglas' company, United Verde Extension Mining Company discovered a secondore body which became spectacularly profittable. 
The Douglas mansion was transferred to the State of Arizona and is now the Visitor's Center for the State Park. Outside are dozens of machines (and thankfully descriptions) of mining equipment once used for mining the copper, silver and gold.   
Jerome was built on switchback roads and many of the original buildings are still there. 
A long view across the valley from Jerome at the San Francisco Mountains, a volcanic rangein north Central Arizona, just north of Flagstaff. The highest summit is Humphreys Peak, also the highest point in Arizona at 12,633 feet. The modern cement plant is in Clarkdale at the foot of Cleopatra Hill. Founded in 1912 as a modern copper-smelting town, it was a "planned community" which boasted of underground utilities, sewers, paved street, stylish houses and a thriving commercial center. We thought this massive, multi-story building was a hotel on the road to the State Park. We learned it is, in fact, a private residence. Wow!
Lunch at the Mile High Grill (5,280 feet above sea level) was a climb up the stairs from the parking lot one street down and included a delicious blueberry cobbler. 

21 December 2019 Dinner with Cathy and David. 
Having just arrived from their cross-country drive this afternoon, Cathy and David were ready for some serious Mexican fair at the Calavera Bar and Grill in Cottonwood, AZ. Decor was a lot of the"Day of the Dead" variety with a large selection of kicking (that means spicy) foods. Patient puppies await our return.

27 December 2019 Shopping trip to Sedona
The Tlaquepaque (the best of everything) Art and Shopping Village located in the heart of Sedona reflects the traditional Mexican villages with cobblestone walkways, plazas and shady verandas, flowerbeds and greenery. We did a little wandering while waiting for Stephanie and Lisa. 
Everything was rain washed, including us. There was even a small chapel which could be used for weddings. Other events also held throughout the year are Day of the Dead, Tree Lighting and Festival of Lights, Menorah Lighting, and Cinco de Mayo.
The backdrop of the Red Rocks of Sedona makes a dramatic effect when the clouds finally started to clear. 

Verde Canyon Railroad, Clarkdale, Arizona - 28 December 2019
Advertised as Arizona's Longest Running Nature Show, the Verde Canyon Railroad is a 20-mile journey through 110 years of history. Built in 1953, these classic Iron Horses were used by the Alaska Railroad and debuted in 1997 on the Verde Canyon Railroad tracks. Large panoramic windows and open air cars provide excellent viewing of the remote wilderness. 
David enjoys the Christmas themed decorations prior to boarding. 

And Bob is all about the O-H-I-O!
Wending our way through one car, the open-air car and into our deluxe accomodations with plush sofas and chairs, coffee tables, a bar, hot buffet lunch. Our attendants provided a champagne toast upon boarding and informative narration during our excursion.
A nod to the season, this little North Pole Village is just outside the town of Clarkdale. 
Train rounds the bend and crosses the trestle. 
Spectacular views of the canyon, mountains and the Verde River. 
The rugged, high-desert cliff faces and spectacular vistas are only accessible by rail. 
Some unique rock formations, such as the Turtle, are seen along the 40-mile round trip.
Entering the Tunnel, we were told a new bald eagle nest is being built by the resident pair whose large nest in a sycamore tree had been destroyed. Seems this time, they had decided a more stable location of rocks was chosen but we never did see it. The open-air cars decorative lighting sparkles in the night of the tunnel. 
Souring pinnacles. 
Ceiling mirrors let Bob play with different viewpoints. 
Thunderbird decor behind the extensive bar. 
Looking closely on the return trip, I noticed this very well preserved cliff dwelling. The attendant said her boyfriend had climbed up to it and found the floor strewn with artifacts. 
Before and After it snowed at Jerome. Our view from Rain Spirit RV Resort
A little snow at the higher elevations. While we had freezing temperatures at night, most days are enjoyable with a couple light layers and a jacket. 

Hike Sedona and New Years Eve, Clarkdale, Arizona - 31 December 2019
On Right Courthouse Butte and Bell Rock. Our intention was to climb up Bell Rock. Our best laid plans did not take into account the enormous popularity of this region during the Holiday season. Parking is severely limited at most locations so we stopped at the overflow parking across the Highway and looked from afar. 
Courthouse Butte has a summit elevation of 5,454 feet and Bell Rock is more popular at 4,919 feet. People claim that Bell Rock is a "vortex" (a place with a high concentration of spiritual energy), making it a popular tourist destination and place of meditation. There are many "vortex" locations around Sedona that are noted on the maps from the Visitor's Center. 
Bob and puppies with Cathedral Rock in the background. Over his right shoulder is the Chapel of the Holy Cross, inspired and commissioned by a local rancher, it was built in 1932 and completed in 1956. The 90-foot cross on the outward face wall serves both aesthetic and structural purposes. 
In 2007, Arizonans voted the Chapel to be one of the Seven Man-Made Wonders of Arizona. Lower right is Rabbit Ears. 
Arizona Copper Art Museum, Clarkdale, Arizona - 31 December 2019
Housed in the old Clarkdale High School, the Arizona Copper Museum features what man has made in an incomparable collection of over 5,000 works of copper art and architecture spanning from 3500 B.C. to the present.
Purposely located in Clarkdale to connect with Arizona's copper foundation which produced over 100 billion pounds of copper and gave Arizona its nickname: the Copper State. Outside the museum is this still from Scotland.
Copper and its alloy, bronze, have been commonly used in art since the ancient Egyptians. 
The Military Art Collection reveals the individuality of military men upon expended brass artillery shell casings. Many designs were thought up while soldiers were in between battles. These works were made as souvenirs and for loved ones back home. Called "trench art" these shell casing were transformed while soldiers remained on the battlefields of Europe in the trenches of World War I.
Copper architecture is the practice of designing monuments and buildings that accommodate specific copper features to embellish structures creating a graceful appearance. 
So many copper kitchen applications - food preparations, cooking, drinking, food storage, dish washing and laundry. But care must be taken as copper must be tin lined to protect food from discoloration and toxicity. Preferred by renowned chefs, copper is the only metal that has been cooked on for eons.
A great conductor for heat and cold, copper ice cube tray. 
We could probably keep all the coffee beans we use in a year in this dispenser. 

Happy New Year, Rain Spirit Resort, Arizona - 1 January 2020
As we are not fans of the ritual New Year's eve festivities and stay safely at home, Bob concocted a fruit smoothy with apricot liqueur, Olde York Farm Vodka distilled from apples and flavored with real lilac flowers grown around the distillery, a dash of almond extract, blueberries, bananas and nutmeg.


Wednesday, January 15, 2020

2019 11 22 - 11 26 Golden Valley, Kingman AZ

Powerhouse Visitors Center, Kingman, Arizona - 22 November 2019
A classic example of how events can impact the lives of an entire town even if that even last a short period of time, the Kingman Powerhouse used for only twenty-nine years proved to be the primary influence in bringing Kingman and Mojave County into the twentieth century with its power. Kingman and the surrounding area would "see the light" and leave the dark side of the nineteenth century in the dust of progress while mining flourished, as methods of ore extraction and processing became more efficient and cost effective. Power was delivered by oil-fired, steam-driven plant starting in 1909. By 1938, the plant was put on standby to serve as backup to power received from the new power generating stations of the recently completed Boulder (Hoover) Dam. 


For many years, the powerhouse sat idle while the neglect took its toll.  In 1986, the powerhouse was sold as a tax write-off. Ten years later, the Arizona Route 66 Museum opened in the visitor center along with a Gift Shop of local and Arizona products.
Hike to Monolith Garden Loop, Golden Valley, Arizona - 22 November 2019
Tori looks back at us and says "This way to Monolith Gardens Loop". Many iconic rock formations, formed by ancient volcanic activity, can be seen from this trail through the Cerbat Foothills Recreation Area. Totaling 6.4 miles of lightly trafficked loop trail features beautiful wild flowers and is open to hikers, mountain bikers, horseback riders and trail runners 
A windy, chilly start but sunny throughout the hike. Taking the dogs on these desert hikes is a real challenge as their fur is a major attractant for every kind of thorn, burr, spines, resinous coatings.
A landscape that appears beautiful yet devoid of life can suddenly provide one small living creature announcing a warning to unseen companions in the rocks. 
They do look like Baby Bottles. But we are going the other way for now. Not the full 6.4 miles but about half that distance. 
Just a few of the culprits that cling determinedly to dog fur, clothes and shoe laces. 
Interspersed among the volcanic rock formation are also some sandstone that show signs of wind and water erosion. 
Desert Diamond Distillery (D3) Tour, Kingman, Arizona - 23 November 2019


Desert Diamond Distillery is Arizona's oldest craft distillery of four rums and a vodka.
Production room has a state of the art still from Arnold Holstein in Germany, and the tanks were made and installed from Bavarian Breweries in California. 
The Aging Room with racks of barrels of rum. 
 
A tasting at the bar (which supposedly came from the private bar used by the Rat Pack). Bob found some good rums.
Hualapai Mountain Resort - 24 November 2019



Twelve miles southeast of Kingman, the Hualapai Reosrt is a through back to the getaways along the longest stretch of the original historic Route 66.  Among the cool pines, you can enjoy majestic views, hiking, picnicing, camping, wildlifeviewing, biking, or simply relaxing at the Resort. 

Rustic styling in the Diamond Creek restaurant and the well-rated Sunday brunch brought us in for a late meal. 
Carol, are you growing taller? A semi-private dining option with large windows on three sides. 
Viewed from the extra large picture window in the dining room or step outside to get a close view of the resident elk. 
The living room at our Airbnb in Golden Valley, AZ. Comfortable chairs but a small TV. 





Friday, December 20, 2019

2019 11 20 - 11 26 Hoover Dam

Hoover Dam, Black Canyon, Clark County, Nevada - 20 November 2019


The bypass bridge was opened in 2010 across the outflow of the Colorado River from the Hoover Dam. This allows traffic to flow continuously on the highway instead of the old 2-lane road that winds around. It also gives visitors a great view of the dam, towers and spillways. 
Fortunately, the rain we had driven through for 90 minutes had finally stopped so we had a great view of the everything including Lake Mead. Constructed in the 1930s by 21,000 men, the dam is 726 feet tall and 660 feet thick (at the bottom) and holds back the water pressure of 45,000 pounds per square foot. At 4.5 million cubic yards of concrete, that is enough to build a four-foot wide sidewalk around the Earth at the Equator. 
Just the facts, Ma'am. And there are plenty of them. Named after the former Nevada Governor Mike O'Callaghan and former NFL player and U.S. Army Ranger. Spanning the Black Canyon between Nevada and Arizona, the bridge is nearly 900 feet above the Colorado River. It is the seventh highest bridge in the world.
 
A statue of a worker in harness called the "Dam High Scaler Monument", a larger-than-life, fearless, worker who would dangle hundreds of feet in the air, armed with jack hammers to jar loose rocks and dynamite to blast away at the canyon walls. And the faithful mascot who spent years along side the workers.

The Memorial to the 96 men who died in the construction of the dam. The low-relief panel by sculptor Oskar J. Hansen, edicated in 1935, shows  naked man emerging from waves in front of the dam. A thunder cloud spits lightning bolts, stalks of grain sprout, and fruits and vegetables flourish. The monumnet states: "They died to make the desert bloom." Intake towers on the Lake Mead side. The multistory Visitor's Center which opened in 1995 houses exhibits explaining how the dam operates and elevators for tour access to the Powerplant. And the Winged Figures of the Republic, dedicated in 1935, created by Oscar Hansen and made of more than 4 tons of bronze. The wings are about 30 feet tall, they may be angels, demons or far-future humans. The monument is surrounded by a terrazzo floor with a celestial chart showing the exact position of key stars on the day the Hoover Dam was dedicated by President Franklin D. Roosevelt. 
Panels on the elevator towers shows the purposes of the dam: flood control, navigation, irrigation, water storage and power.
On opposite sides. I'm on the Nevada side and Bob is on the Arizona side. 

The Desert Princess, an authentic, three level, Mississippi-style paddle wheeler built especially to cruise on Lake Mead. At its highest point, Lake Mead elevation reached 1220.45 feet above sea level and was 580 feet deep, 120 miles long. 


A replica of one of hundreds of containers used to deliver the 4,360,000 cubic yards concrete in the dam, powerplant and appurttenant works between 6 June 1933 and 29 May 1935.
On tour with our guide, the diagram shows the internal workings of the dam, generators and spillways. The four diversion tunnels behind the canyon walls were fifty feet in diameter during construction of the dam. Afterwards, one-third of the inner tunnels were plugged with concrete and now contain 30-foot-diameter steel pipes (called penstocks) which connect the intake towers in the reservoir with the powerplant and conyon outlet-works. The two outer tunnels are used for spillway outlets.   
One of two powerplant wings. Each is 650 feet long and rises 229 feet. The 17 main turbines--nine on the Arizona side and eight on the Nevada side--having a combined rated capacity of 2,991,000 horsepower or 2,080 megawatts. The average annual generation from 1947 through 2008 was about 4.2 billion kilowatt-hours. Smaller generators are used for moving machinery in the powerplants. And the inner steel pipe of the penstock. We could even hear the water churning through the pipe.