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Wednesday, May 1, 2019

2019 04 01 - 04 26 Independence MO, Bulltown Campground Burnsville, WV.

Harry S Truman, Independence, Missouri - Tuesday 2 April 2019


Jackson County Courthouse where Truman had his first real job in politics as a District Judge. His office and courtroom are the two lower left windows. From his reputation for integrity and hard work as a judge, he was voted into the US Senate in 1935. The family (Harry, wife Bess and only child, Margaret) moved to Washington but all remained Missourians at heart. He became the 33rd President of the United States after the death of Franklin Roosevelt. 

Upon returning to Independence after his second term, Harry, Bess and Margaret returned to the house that Bess' grandfather had built. Bess and her brothers moved with their mother into this house in 1901. After their marriage in 1919, Harry and Bess moved into this same house thus having four generations living in the same house together. The front rooms are the parlor and formal living room which were rarely used by Harry and Bess. They preferred the smaller library for reading and listening to the radio, the kitchen for meals (unless the weather allowed for dining on the screened in porch) and one small bedroom upstairs. 

Directly across the street is the Noland house, Harry's aunt and uncle. In 1910, Harry was visiting and volunteered to return a cake plate to a neighbor, Mrs. Madge Wallace. Bess greeted him at the door and their courtship began. In 1911, Bess declined his first proposal. It would be another 8 years before she would accept his second one. 
Clinton's Soda Shop has been in business since 1988 while the building on Independence Square dates back to the 1800s. Decades ago Harry Truman worked at the pharmacy and soda fountain on this very location. Bob and I had to stop to choose between a "sundae or phosphate". I had Harry's favorite - a chocolate ice cream with butterscotch syrup. Delicious.
Harry's famous "The Buck Stops Here" plaque.

Battle of Lexington, Lexington, Missouri - 2 March 2019


During 1861, the Civil War came to this farming community in the First Battle of Lexington, also known as the Battle of the Hemp Bales, and took place from 12-20 September 1861. The participants were the Union Army and the pro-Confederate Missouri State Guard.

The home of Oliver Anderson faced the Missouri River where hemp (for ropes), tobacco, coal and cattle all contributed to the town's wealth. Though Missouri remained in the Union during the war, many of Lexington's residents were slave owners and several were openly sympathetic to the southern cause. Sometime in July 1861, the Anderson family was evicted from their home by Union troops for its strategic location and for use as a hospital. In violation of "laws of war", the State Guard captured the house on September 18th. The Union had established its fortifications on top of a hill less than 100 yards from the back of the house and charged from those lines to recapture the house. They could not hold the house against a second State Guard assault later that day. The final day the Guard pushed large hemp bales to be used as cover when they made their way uphill, finally routing the Union soldiers. 


A few items from the era include a portrait of a child who has died (removing a shoe so visitors did not ask about the child), a stereoscope and hair wreath.
The front room parlor with a piano. The piano is still played when special events are held at the house. 
Upstairs, one of the connecting bedrooms had been converted into an operating room, using a door as the surgical table. On the wall behind are several bullet holes. The hardwood floors were quickly soaked in blood and the tale says the three holes near the surgical table were to allow the blood to drain away. 
Built-in china cabinet and to the left is a linen drying cabinet next to the fireplace which provided heat for drying linens.  Bedrooms contained closets less than 10 inches deep. A room could be taxed if you could step completely into the closet and turn around with the door closed. When I was 16 my parents rented a house near Chicago that had very shallow closets. We could not figure out why but maybe now we know. 

Kansas City Zoo, Kansas City, Missouri - 8 April 2019


Considering the entrance building, we had high hopes for a wonderful visit to the Kansas City Zoo. The first creatures we saw were a pair of river otters frolicking in front of the glass. The second space was occupied by a young polar bear. Both of these are favorites of ours, especially when it's a lovely day and they are actively entertaining themselves.   


We stopped off to see the penguins in their new environs. From that point, we were sadly disappointed. We are very adept at map reading and following signs but were baffled by the oddness of layout and configuration of roads. There was so much unused space for expansive enclosures. Perhaps it is a lack of funds or only the front of the zoo has received any updating. We did get way over our 10,000 steps, so that's a positive. 
Granite City, Illinois - 13 April 2019





Met Bob's brothers, Mike and Jim with their wives, Julie and Jan at the restaurant/brewery across the street from Our Lady of the Snows. Huge building, half of which is the brewery. The tables are laid out for large gatherings and the atmosphere is Oktoberfest all year long. TRIVIA QUESTION - What was the original purpose of Oktoberfest? No cheating by using Google.

As you can see, there is a rivalry "brewing" here. St. Louis Blues fans and Columbus Blue Jackets fans. Fortunately, they came together to share a meal (that is the meat platter(s) that Bob and Mike shared) and walked away content to hope both teams survived through the first round. It's Time, Jackets!

The live music was very loud and seemed to be in German (maybe, maybe not) but it had a good beat and you could dance to it. TRIVIA ANSWER - Crown Prince Ludwig married Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen on 12 October 1810. All the citizens were invited to the festivities held on the fields in front of the city gates to celebrate the royal event. The fields were named Thereienwiese (Therese's Meadows) in honor of the Crown Princess and have kept that name ever since.

St. Louis Zoo, St. Louis, Missouri - 15 April 2019


The Return of the Bears! St. Louis Zoo has acquired two grizzly bear siblings, Huck and Finley. They were orphaned at 2 1/2 years old and came to this new enclosure in 2017. Today they had plenty to do gnawing on enormous joint bones. All grizzlies are brown bears but not all brown bears are grizzlies. 



Our struggles to see wild puffins finally came to fruition in 2010 after four attempts but it so much easier to see them here. The horned puffins (left) develops the brightly colored bill during breeding season but are named for the two horns above their eyes. The tufted puffin sports feathers behind the eyes that become bright yellow during breeding season. 


At lunch out on the patio, Bob noticed a clump of fur up in a cottonwood tree. Turns out we were watching nature in all her glory as this barred (or hoot) owl turned to monitor all the chattering, both from the diners and the other birds. We think this one lives in the cottonwood since its flight feathers don't seem to have grown in yet. 
Western Lowland Gorilla, one of several silverbacks. 


We also stopped at the new polar bear exhibit. Kali (pronounced "Cully"), a 2 1/2 year old, 850 pound male was orphaned in Alaska as a cub. For the 30 minutes we watched, he spent swimming in his pool while playing with a PVC pipe connected with a 90 degree angle. Loads of fun letting it sink and plunging to the bottom to retrieve it. All the children were delighted at his antics and amazed at his swimming abilities.


A Sichuan Takin (rhymes with rockin') an antelope-like goat and little known relative of the musk ox. It shares its bamboo forests of China with the elusive giant panda. And like the panda, they are considered national treasures.


Reticulated giraffes
Grebe's Zebra, White-faced Saki, critically endangered Addax
Columbus Zoo, Columbus, Ohio - 21 April 2019


Still our all time favorite zoo (with St. Louis a close second), a visit to Columbus is not complete without spending a day here. 

It wasn't too crowded, the flamingos were frisky and the tulips and daffodils were in bloom. 

The outside enclosure for one of the three groups of gorillas consists of one silverback, two adult females, three juveniles and one youngster. It was Easter so the enrichment was large sheets of paper, dried grass and colored eggs (peeled). The youngster spent most of his time playing "catch me if you can" with the silverback and practicing his chest smacking.  

How many Asian small-clawed otters do you see? One has ducked behind the left rock. 


The keepers do provide fish and mussels during the "talks" held on the bridge crossing above the enclosure. The otters quickly learn to bark and sit up begging for food anytime people gather. What is cuter than an Asian small-clawed otter? Eleven of them.

Our last day in Columbus was enjoyed in the company of our former neighbors, Tony and Ann. Gracious hosts who always invite us to their house for cocktails before we all walk over the the best pizza in town at Enrico's, a family-owned restaurant that began serving authentic cuisine after arriving from Italy in 1968. 

Flatwoods, Sutton, Burnsville WV. - 24-28 April 2019

Bulltown Battlefield - 27 April 2019


Bulltown is an extinct town now contained within Burnsville, West Virginia. Our campgrounds were along the river downstream from the Burnsville Dam, built by the Army Corps of Engineers. At the front of the campgrounds the battlefield contains fortifications dug to protect the Union fort which defended the highway connecting the northern and southern portions of West Virginina. Had the Confederate assault been successful, Col. William L. "Mudwall" Jackson (cousin of Stonewall) would have severed northern communications and created an opportunity to march on Wheeling, the center of Union support in the state. The site also includes the last resting place for seven unknown Confederate soldiers, intact sections of the Weston-Gauley Turnpike and the Cunningham House which sheltered Confederate supporters. 

Several historic buildings were purchased and moved here by the Army Corps of Engineers in order to save them during construction of the dam. 

Spring is beginning to arrive with the blooming of dogwood trees. Our puppies really enjoyed exploring the wooded area on the bluff where the fortifications are located. 

Add a flowing stream and they had a splendid day after several of rainy days stuck in the RV. 



In West Virginia folklore, on 12 September 1952, two brothers, Edward and Fred May and their friend, Tommy Hyer said they saw a bright object cross the sky and land on the property of local farmer. The boys, Tommy's mom and a local National Guardsman investigated the scene finding a pulsating red glow on top of a hill. They saw a 10-foot tall man-like figure with a round, red face surrounded by a pointed, hood-like shape. Fifty years later, investigators concluded the light was a meteor and the "creature" was a barn owl perched in a tree, with shadows making it appear at be a large huminoid. Even the explanation is fanciful. In popular culture, "Braxie" makes an appearance in the 2018 video game Fallout 76 and in 2019 the second episode of Project Blue Book on the History Channel.
Burnsville Dam is located on the Little Kanawha River. The earthen and concrete dam is 90 feet high and 1,400 feet across. Beginning operation in 1978, creating a lake of 968 surface acres with an average depth of  20 to 25 feet. Seems to us the amount of released water is a little high as the walkway along the shore has disappeared and sitting on the bench Bob is likely to get his feet wet. The three panels between the towers could be raised by giant steel arms to release additional water.

After a long day, Bob and Tori take naps to recover. In town, we could still find real working public phones. Sometimes we felt like there should be more of them since phone service was spotty at best, Wi-fi was a joke and television was completely absent (hence the neighbor's satellite dome) but with a view like this and lots of places to walk around, nature was her own entertainment. 

Tuesday, April 2, 2019

2019 03 23 - 03 31 Amarillo TX, Palo Duro Canyon, Cadillac Ranch

New Mexico - 20 March 2019
Somehow we got turned around while we were traveling from Santa Fe to Amarillo, Texas and ended up unable to get back on the highway. But luckily we saw the Highway 66 sign that we could get on and will take us right where we wanted to go. It was like an outer road just off the regular highway but was not a road designed for our kind of rig. With only two lanes and ditches on both sides there was no turning around. After about 25 minutes we turn a sharp right and are staring at this double tunnel under the highway. You can't really see it but on the right side of the front tunnel is a painted sign for Highway 66. Oh and our 5th wheel is listed at 13' 7", that gave us 3" to spare. There was no way we were going to start driving through those tunnels until I had walked to see what was around the corner and verify height and width. It was not as tight as it looked and after we made our left turn it was a short distance uphill to merge on another section of the remains of old Highway 66. A couple miles down the road and we arrive at our next campground. 


Our campground has an arrangement with the Big Texan Steak Ranch. The six passenger limo arrives at our site for door-to-door service. 


Big steaks and big brews. Lots of trophies on the walls and a couple good ol' boys singing "The Yellow Rose of Texas" at our request. 


The Big Texan Steak Ranch is the home of the FREE 72 ounce steak dinner (with all the fixings), if eaten within an hour. Besides the free dinner if you finish you get a t-shirt. Yeah! The raised stage has 3 guests and 3 open seats. Now imagine in your mind's eye the person who would want to eat 4.5 pounds of meat, salad, potato, roll with butter in under an hour. Let me describe the challenge record holder. Weighing in at 124 pounds and eating not one, not two but three 72 ounce steak dinners in 20 minutes flat and added 3 shrimp cocktails. And the winner is Molly Schuyler. Did I mention that she was pregnant at the time?

Paol Duro Canyon State Park, Canyon, Texas - 21 March 2019


Known locally as the "Grand Canyon of Texas" created by the Red River as the Colorado River ground out the Grand Canyon in Arizona. It is the second largest canyon in the country. Many areas including the Visitor's Center, trails and camping areas were built by the Civilian conservation Corps more than 70 years ago. 


People have inhabited Palo Duro Canyon for about 12,000 years, including the Clovis and Folsom peoples hunting large herds of mammoth and giant bison. More recently, the Apache, Comanche and Kiowa used the plentiful resources. They left behind rock art and bedrock mortars, where they ground mesquite beans and roots for food. Once we found a cave, Tori was very interested in exploring on her own. While we were eating lunch two roadrunners were investigating the campgrounds for leftovers.  


This red soil is very easily eroded by rain or footprints. It literally crumbles under the slightest touch. Staying on the paths are imperative for slowing the natural deterioration. 



This tree is growing out of the center of this huge rock, splitting it open further and further as the tree grows. 

Taking the dogs off leash makes it easier for everyone to make the climb up to this cave. We wouldn't do that if there were others in the area or any wildlife. 

Tori off leash. She likes to go at her own pace but will stop climbing and wait for us to catch up. 


It doesn't go very far in but does have a hole in the roof where the rain comes in making a small pool that some visitors wade in during the summer months. Today it was dry so Tori didn't go for a swim. 


Cadillac Ranch, Amarillo, Texas - Thursday, 21 March 2019


Public art installation by 4 artists of Ant Farm, Chip Lord, Doug Michels, Hudson Marquez and Stanley Marsh) created in 1974. Ten cadillacs buried nose-first and left out standing in a field.  

Over the years, other "artists" have added to the installation with layer after layer of spray paint. Sadly, the remnants of those paint cans are all over the ground. 
A lovely couple from Vancouver (originally Germany) who rented a truck drop-in camper and took their Freshman son's Spring Break on a road trip. She was kind enough to take our picture. The weather has turned chilly again with strong winds but some sunshine. Layers and winter coats were in order. 

Big Texans RV Park, Amarillo, Texas - Friday, 22 March 2019


A quite evening suddenly interrupted by blaring sirens and darkening skies. After seeing a dozen or so folks gathering near the emergency shelters we gathered our pups and decided safety first. Things were looking okay with just a little rain but the sirens kept going off. Suddenly, the hail started beating on the metal roof. That sent some of the furry friends into a panic. After four separate rounds of hail the skies began to lighten so we headed back home. In the morning, we got reports of a possible twister to the west and one to the east of Amarillo. Luck was with us again.  

El Reno West KOA, Geary, Oklahoma - Saturday, 23 March 2019


A brief stay outside of Oklahoma City. There was rain coming north of us. The building clouds made for a beautiful sunset. 

The double fence protect us from the short sighted and short tempered bison. Dakota and Bob better be careful of the alligators down by the pond. 
Kaufman Ballpark, Kansas City, Kansas - 31 March 2019


Home of the Kansas City Royals. Another drop in temperatures but the rain and snow had disappeared. Don't put the winter coats away yet. 


Batting practice by the visitors, Chicago White Sox. The expanded concourse allows total access views all the way around the field. The largest in-stadium solar array in the MLB which provides 36,000 kWh of renewable energy each year. The fountains (Water Spectacular) is the largest privately funded fountain in the world at 322 feet. 

Statues of several Hall of Fame inductees (George Brett) and the two World Series trophies (1985 and 2015).

Left field view of the scoreboard (The Crown Vision) and a Royals themed carousel as part of the kids corner, with batting cages, base running, pitching mound, playground and mini golf.


Sunday, March 24, 2019

2019 03 15 Meteor Crater Natural Landmark, 2019 03 16 Navajo Code Talkers New Mexico Veterans Memorial

Meteor Crater Natural Landmark, Flagstaff, Arizona - 15 March 2019

Walking on the path around the crater rim on the guided tour we can see the San Francisco mountains across the way still with snow caps. 


Created approximately 50,000 years ago, the meteorite impact crater was the final destination of what is suspected to be the meteor's 500 million year race through space. At about 26,000 miles per hour, in a blinding flash, it struck the rocky plain of today's Arizona with an explosive force greater than 20 million tons of TNT. The impact and ensuing displacement of rock and soil produced the crater floor large enough to hold 20 football fields. Over 175 million tons of limestone and sandstone were thrown out to form a blanket of debris surrounding the crater for a distance of over a mile and leaving a crater 700 feet deep and over 4000 feet across. 
The crater and surrounding property is still owned by the Barringer family. Tourists were allowed to view the crater and cattle that grazed on the surrounding lands.


 During mining operations this small cabin was occupied by the miners during severe storms. It was also the storage space for the dynamite used during mining operations. Some clever person during a lightning storm finally thought it would be a better idea to store the dynamite elsewhere. The Widow Barringer is said to have spent much of her time at this cabin which had running water. She had ranch cowboys haul her old manual washing machine up to it so she could get her chores done while answering questions.    



We are not standing at the edge of the crater because the soil underneath is still too damp from snowfall and rain. The rock outcrops are loose and might dump anyone venturing out to the edge down into the crater. To the right of Bob a shiny object can be seen on the crater floor. That is a piece of a private plane which crashed on a site seeing flight in 1964. The 2 on board survived but the plane was left there to hopefully deter anyone else from flying into the crater. Good ideas sometimes backfire and more planes began to fly over. Finally it was decided to remove the plane debris and dump all but that one piece into the now abandoned mine shaft. 


This is the storage area for the mining. There is a story of a young family visiting the crater who attempted to investigate this "cave". When they got close to the entrance a mountain lion ran out so now the entrance is covered with chicken wire. And the dynamite was removed. Just for safety.



The inner circle is where the mining operations took place. On the right is the Visitor's Center, Gift Shop and Theater. Fun facts - in 1984 the movie Starman was filmed here. It tells the story of a humanoid alien (Jeff Bridges) who has come to Earth in response to the invitation found on the gold phonograph record installed on the Voyager 2 space probe. Second Fun Fact - Astronauts trained here, conducting mapping and surveying drills in and around the crater for moon landings. Today, astronauts are tutored for planetary surface operations, which require different talents than those needed for past space shuttle flights and work on the International Space Station.

The Holsinger Meteorite is the largest discovered fragment of the 150-foot meteor that created Meteor Crater.  Most of the meteorite fragmented and disintegrated.  

Did we really get down to the bottom of the crater?
Window Rock Tribal Park & Veteran's Memorial, Window Rock, Arizona - 16 March 2019

An amazing natural space for a memorial to the Navajo Code Talkers of World War II. Bilingual Navajo speakers specially recruited during the war by the Marine Corps to serve in communication units of the Pacific theater. The Japanese were adept at breaking standard military codes until the Code Talkers began being utilized. Originally 29 members but as the war progressed more than 400 Navajos were recruited as Code Talkers.

This natural "window" is a wind-eroded opening in the sandstone cliffs that overlook the administrative buildings of the town of Window Rock which is the capital of the extensive Navajo Nation Reservation, Apache county. It was established in 1936 as the Central Agency Headquarters to consolidate the many agencies scattered throughout the reservation  

The park features a line of sandstone cliffs that reach up to 200 feet. This sculpture represents 16 steel bayonets for the 16 tribes who provided Code Talkers. The circular path is transected by color coded paths marking the four major compass points - white (East), blue (South), red (West) and black (North). 

A list of the Navajo Code Talkers.

The gnarly old pine is growing directly out of a huge rock.

A path behind the window's cliff revealed more lines of cliffs. 

Like giant arms of sandstone wrapping around.

Left over snow that is hanging on in the shadows.

A local artist, Mark Begay, Sr., who was born, raised and still lives in Canyon-de-Chelly paints Navajo pictographs on natural rocks which he harvests from his family's farm at the bottom of the Canyon. His family has lived in the Canyon for over seven generations growing corn (maize), beans, squash, firing pottery and hunting game. He helped us understand the designs and sculptures of the park. We purchased the piece he is holding.

Administrative Building for the Navajo Nation.
Badlands Grill, Gallup, Arizona - 16 March 2019

A day late due to traveling, we celebrated our 39th wedding anniversary at this local restaurant. Shrimp and steak dinners saving room for a shared dessert. Please, no more Blake Shelton! (Chew tobacco, chew tobacco, chew tobacco, spit)