2019 06 03 - 06 09 Finger Lakes Region of New York

Watkins Glen, Finger Lakes Region, New York - 3 June 2019

At the southern end of Seneca Lake is the Village of Watkins Glen. Seneca Lake is one of western New York's deep, glacial lakes. The village is home to the race track Watkins Glen International, host of NASCAR Cup Series, IndyCar and a former host of the US Grand Prix of Formula One. Surprisingly, the first road race was held in 1948 on public streets in and near the village. To look at the village today, with it's B&Bs, ice cream shops and other tourist stores, it's hard to imagine a road race speeding through. Passing through the center of the village for 6.6 miles, the streets used for the original course remain intact and a checkered flag marks the start-finish line on Main Street and names of (what we assume are) racing royalty along the sidewalks. We had a few days before my sister and her husband arrived so we found other interests in the area.   

Women's Rights National Historical Park, Seneca Falls, New York - 4 June 2019

On 19-20 July 1848, some 300 women and men gathered in the Wesleyan Chapel to hear the first formal demands for women's rights. While most believe this was a call for the vote, in fact, the convention would include the demand for inheritance and land ownership, custody of children after a divorce, the right to file for a divorce, a right to speak in public, hold office, attend college, make contracts and be free of domestic abuse. 

The First Wave Statue represent those who attended the Convention including Elizabeth Cady Stanton, who gave the keynote address, Lucretia and James Mott and Mary Ann and Thomas McClintock, all well known Quaker abolitionists, Frederick Douglas and Mary Wright, sister of Lucretia and others who attended the convention. 

The Wesleyan Chapel held a standing room only crowd of about 300 locals, abolitionists, temperance workers and reformers debating the wording of the "Declaration of Sentiments" which was based on the Declaration of Independence, demanding equality in property rights, education, employment, religion, marriage and family, and the vote.  

"We hold these truths to be self-evident: that all men and women are created equal". It was over 70 years later before women were allowed to vote in Federal elections. Today, many of the convention's most radical demands are taken for granted. And in danger of being suppressed.

On our way, we thought we would check a local farm for some regional cheese. Not too far off our route we were right in the heart of a farming community. Things were looking good. By the time the GPS said, "You have arrived" my only comment was, "No, we haven't". A tiny house and out back was an arched thing covered in ripped plastic. Nothing to indicate there could or should be any food products being made under sanitary conditions. We turned around and kept driving. 

Montour Falls, New York - 5 June 2019

 "Montour" is derived from Queen Catherine Montour, a prominent Native American woman of Seneca Indian heritage who lived in the village. Her father was a Mohawk chief and her mother was the daughter of an Oneida chief. Catherine would marry a Seneca chief whose tribe was a member the Iroquois Confederacy. Kind of awesome to have such a beautiful falls in the residential neighborhood of the town. The falls are named Shequaga which means "tumbling waters". The notice states "A sketch now in the Louvre made about 1820 by Louis Philippe, later king of France. 

Ithac, New York, Scenic Drive - 5 June 2019

The artistic paintings on the buildings and sculpture on the roofs give Ithaca a whimsical feel.

Taughannock Falls State Park

Taughannock Falls plunges 215 feet past rocky cliffs that tower nearly 400 feet above the gorge. We decided the over 8 mile hike was a little more than we wanted to attempt. 

Cayuga Lake State Park-East

Osprey (and Bald Eagles) are very prevalent along the lakes in this region. And, of course, the well known mallard. Cayuga Lake is the longest of the glacial Finger Lakes at just under 40 miles and approximately 435 feet at its deepest point.

Just outside of Seneca Falls is a huge driving tour of the Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge and its Wetlands. We were just hoping to see anything on this cloudy, rainy, blustery day. 

Looking rather ferocious but it's just a wooden sculpture of the National symbol.

Bob and David climbed up the tower for a bird's-eye view. Seems Bob was looking in the wrong direction for this picture. We had better luck later on (with four pairs of eyes) and can tick off the American Wigeon, Eastern Kingbird and Common Moorehen. We may never complete our birding list but we enjoy the "hunt". 

On our return trip home we found the local Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream Shop. Some pretty wild flavor combinations and at this time of the season we could actually get into the shop without having to stand in line. 

Corning Museum of Glass, Corning, New York - 6 June 2019 

One of our favorite artists, Dale Chihuly, had several installations at the Corning Glass Museum. We became aware of his work at the Franklin Park Conservatory in Columbus and can easily recognize his pieces. 

We watched a couple demonstrations of glass blowing. 

And Bob participated in a demonstration of different types of glass - regular, tempered, shatterproof. 

There is an entire floor dedicated to science and innovations in glass including a special plate at the back of the furnace which allows the audience to see the glass as it is being heated and shaped. 

1. Portrait of King Amenhotep II ?1426-1400 BC. 

2. Morgan Cup, example of Roman cameo glass. 1-50 AD.

3. Venetian, wine glass. about 1650–1700

4. Asian, Snowflake Warrior Vase. about 1825-1875

5. New York, claret decanter. 1892

The Museum's Glass Collection showcases more that 35 centuries of glass production. As far back as an image of an Egyptian Pharaoh, through Renaissance Venetian glass and American Tiffany. The galleries showcase Near Eastern, Asian, European and American glass and glass making from antiquity through present day. Special sections show examples of stained glass and paperweights from around the world.  


Harriet Tubman National Historical Site, Auburn, New York - 7 June 2019

This property was purchased in 1857 by Harriet from an acquaintance, William H. Seward, later the Secretary of State under Abraham Lincoln. They had become friends stemming from the Underground Railroad. She moved here with her parents from Ontario where she had travelled after self-liberating from her master's plantation in Maryland. Cathy and David check out the progress of the renovations. 

The Tubman house and barn are directly across from the Home for the Aged. The House is closed and under extensive renovations. Before walking the grounds, we had a delightfully entertaining talk from from one of the tour guides recounting the life of "Moses" who guided escaped slaves through the Underground Railroad, served as an armed scout and spy for the Union during the Civil War and was an activist for women's suffrage. 

The Harriet Tubman Home for the Aged sits on a second parcel adjoining her first purchase. There are enough bedrooms to house 20 people, a living room, dining room and kitchen. It is thought that these side doors led out to the summer kitchen.   

Muranda Cheese Company is a raw milk cheese producer. The Holstein cows have been producing milk on this farm since 1991. They only started making cheese in 2007 and now have 17 artisinal cheeses. Behind the home is the barn built in the late 1800s, recently refurbished and now housing the tasting areas, refrigerators of cheeses, jams and jellies, sausages, cutting boards and knives and other products. For $5 we sampled 15 different cheeses, from mild cheddar to bold blue.   

On a recommendation, we chose to have a wine tasting at the Thirsty Owl. Idealic setting of acres of vines along the driveway. We each got to choose five wines (though I think David wasn't really into it as he was our designated driver). There were many of the wineries right on the banks of the lakes making for some very nice scenery along with the wine tours.  

Watkins Glen State Park, Watkins Glen, New York - 9 June 2019

Bob hiked the iconic gorge trail while Carol took the dogs on the upper rim trail as dogs are not allowed on the gorge trail.  The beautiful scenery  met my expectations based on the descriptions.  It was a bit more crowded with people than what I would have liked, but it was the weekend. The 400-foot gorge has been cut through rock by the Glen Creek that was left hanging when the glaciers deepened the Seneca Valley.

Carol and I met up back on the rim trail for the return trip. We came upon this area with a multitude of stacked rocks that appeared to be cairns of all shapes and sizes. We assume it continues to grow and spread as tourists add to it. 

Watkins Glen KOA, Watkins Glen, New York - 9 June 2019

Last day at Watkins Glen KOA. A long walk, some play time at the K-9 Kamp and outdoor resting before moving on. 

2019 05 29 05 31 Philly's Ball Game, Valley Forge

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania - 29 May 05 2019 

A very soggy start to our evening at the ballpark with Cathy and David for Cardinals versus Phillies. Dinner while floor sitting during the rain delay. Burgers and dogs are still a staple but like most ballfields, Citizens Bank Park has upgraded its food faire to include the local favorite, cheesesteaks, plus taco salads, vegan lettuce wraps, donut burgers and Tandori chicken wings. After more than an hour of waiting, the game was on.

Well, there is some prep time that has to occur before the game begins. There was a lot of water on the grass but the rain had moved off. The grounds crew could begin moving the water to the underground drains and removing the infield tarps.  

The Phanatic dressed in traditional clothing to help celebrate local Greek Heritage. Dancing with one of the field managers.

The game outcome did not please these Cardinal fans. The fans sitting behind us were not the chosen representatives for the City of Brotherly Love. We were fortunate that most of them decided to leave the game before it ended. Putting that aside, we were still at the ballpark. 

Valley Forge National Park, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania - 31 May 2019.

Before taking our walk across the north side on the Joseph Plumb Martin Trail of Valley Forge along the Schuylkill River we all needed some sustenance for puppies and people. Our tailgate provided convenient seating for all. 

The Washington Memorial Chapel is an active Episcopal parish built to honor soldiers of the American Revolution. In 1903, the cornerstone was laid 125 years after the evacuation of the Continental Army in 1778. The exterior was completed in 1917 and the interior in 1921. The belltower on the right was added later. Construction began in 1941, suspended during WWII and restarted in 1949. The "Justice Bell" (Women's Liberty Bell) was forged in 1915 as nearly identical replica of the original Liberty Bell. It toured the nation to promote passage of the 19th Amendment and was permanently moved to the bell tower chamber in 1943.   

Beside the chapel is the Cloister of the Colonies Garden which contains many memorials to those lost in our nation's conflicts. 

Across Valley Forge Park Road is a couple of captured British cannon.

They adorn the model of the Washington Monument obelisk which marks the grave of Lieutenant John Waterman, "whose grave alone of all his comrades was marked" but represents the over 2,000 Continental soldiers who died at Valley Forge or in hospitals. Most did not die during the winter months but in the spring when influenza, typhus, typhoid and dysentery decimated the camp.  

  

Built between 1768-1770 by IsaacPotts, a Quaker who operated a grist mill nearby, this 3-story stone structure was occupied by George Washington, and later by his wife, Martha as well, from Christmas Eve 1777 until 18 June 1778 conducting army business in an office on the first floor. The second floor was dedicated to bedrooms for the Washingtons and senior and junior officers. The thrid floor was occupied by servants and personal slaves. The left attached building is the summer kitchen.

Interior of summer kitchen. Up to 25 people were housed and fed for the six months of occupation in this house. 

The back (larger) bedroom was for George and Martha. The furnishings are period but not original to the house due to subsequent owners who removed their private property when the house was sold. The encampment at Valley Forge contained approximately 16,000 people (12,000 soldiers and camp followers - wives, servants and others who cooked, cleaned and provided sewing for the soldiers) which made it the 4th largest "city" in the colonies behind Philadelphia, New York and Boston. 

Behind the outbuilding, one of seven bronze copies cast from the original marble that stands in the rotunda of the Virginia capitol building. Washington's family considers the final statue to be the most realistic depiction ever made of the general. 

On a hot, sunny day, there is nothing so helpful as a beautiful blooming Catawba tree in full bloom. Deep shade and a little pleasing scent provide some much needed resting space so we can finish our nearly 7.5 mile walk. 

2019 05 13 - 05 21 Downtown Philly, Lancaster etc.

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania - 13 May - 2 June 2019

Liberty Bell and Jim's Steaks, Downtown - 17 May 2019

There was absolutely no consideration of driving into downtown Philly after our disastrous attempt last year. So much easier and relaxing to just take the train. That's what we thought until once again we had to park the truck in areas which have not been designed for a full size truck with an 8 foot bed. Took awhile but eventually we managed to get it wedged into a spot. 

Kristen and Dave joined us for a tour of the renovated Liberty Bell Center. The timeless message engraved around the bottom of the former State House bell is even more relevant today:  "Proclaim Liberty Throughout All the Land Unto All the Inhabitants thereof". The inscription is from the King James Bible 

There are additional exhibits telling the story of the first bell, ordered from London in 1751, which cracked on the first test ring and the recasting of the bell by Philadelphia metalworkers John Pass and John Stow. About 90 years later a small crack developed. It was widened to prevent further spread and restore the tone of the bell using a technique called "stop drilling".

The wide "crack" is actually the repair job. But the repair was not successful when another fissure developed. This second crack silenced the bell forever. It was first referred to as the "Liberty Bell" in 1835 when the inscription became a rallying cry for abolitionists wishing to end slavery. It has served to heal wounds from the Civil War and protest for Women's Suffrage and Civil Rights. 

Of course, after absorbing all the facts and history of the Liberty Bell, a several block walk for a cheesesteak sandwich was in order. Jim's Steaks is still in it's original 1976 location serving authentic Philly-style cheesesteaks. The art-deco storefront is distinctive for the wall tiles and lots of chrome. We are all purists about our sandwiches, just meat and cheese.

They will add onions, mushrooms and green peppers but hey, it is called a "cheesesteak". And our tip is to ALWAYS get the cheese whiz no matter what else they offer. Personally, I prefer the cheese to be melted and added to the meat before packing it on the bun. But that's just me. Enjoy! 

Reading Terminal Market

We have gone to many Farmer's Markets before and since we started on our travels but this is by far the most outstanding one we have experienced. Fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood, dairy and cheeses, candy, pastries, cakes, cookies, pies, ice cream, flowers, leather goods, clothing, pet items, ethnic groceries, housewares, books, crafts, poultry, honey, donuts, spirits and almost 30 restaurants. We were not sure what it was going to be like but we were so full of cheesesteaks all we could sample was ice cream. Bob and I wanted to take advantage of the very reasonable oysters but just couldn't force ourselves.

2019 05 19 Philadelphia second trip.  

Much easier time today finding the train station and figuring out the correct one to take closer to our destination.

So odd but very cool decorations for a parking lot.

The first and only museum dedicated to inspiring active citizenship and bringing the Constitution to life. In the story of "We The People", the best civics lesson in the country is narrated by a live actor to discover why the Constitution is as important today as it was over 200 years ago...maybe more so. 

In light of the enthusiasm for the Broadway production of "Hamilton" I was interested in the feature exhibit of "Hamilton: The Constitutional Clashes That Shaped A Nation" which highlighted the competing ideas of Alexander Hamilton and his legendary rivals James Madison, Thomas Jefferson, John Adams and Aaron Burr. Rare original documents and artifacts explore the competing arguments including the scope of the national government, the establishment of a standing army, the creation of a federal banking system and foreign policy

Museum of the American Revolution

Housing thousand of period items we traced the steps from British colonists to becoming revolutionaries through creating a new nation. A life-size reproduction of the Boston Liberty Tree includes a plank of the actual tree, life-size replicas of members of the Oneida Indian Nation who would join the colonists, breaking away from the Iroquois Confederacy, a replica privateer ship to experience the war at sea, several films including one following  George Washington's journey from wilderness surveyor to General of the nation's army. 

Outside wall mural of the Constitutional Congress meeting in Independence Hall.

Mural of Washington crossing the Delaware River on 25 December 1776.

Housed in a dedicated theater, General Washington's war headquarters tent is one of the most iconic surviving artifacts of the Revolution. Carefully preserved by generations of the Custis and Lee families following the deaths of George and Martha Washington, the tent was purchased in 1909 by Rev. W. Herbert Burk from Miss Mary Lustis Lee, daughter of Confederate General Robert E. Lee.

Aaron Burr and Alexander Hamilton could not resolve their differences which resulted in an early morning duel ending the life America's most prolific Constitutional writer and ending the political career of the Vice President.

2019 05 21 Longwood Gardens
Consisting of over 1077 acres of gardens, woodlands and meadows and built by Pierre S. duPont who had been influenced during his frequent travels around the globe while he preferred to live amid the quiet beauty of the Brandywine Valley. He was astounded by grand architecture and the latest technology including huge display of water pumps and illuminated fountains. Success in corporate America brought him great wealth which he felt a responsibility to use wisely. Pierre and his wife, Alice gave generously to public schools, universities and hospitals but gardening was his life-long passion. The gardens at Longwood were created piecemeal, following no grand design.

Peonies had come into bloom replacing the tulips and daffodils.

After years of renovation and restoration, the mid-1930s hydraulic masterpiece reopened featuring the Main Fountain Garden in front of the Conservatory: 10,000 gallons a minute shot as high as 130 feet and illuminated in every imaginable color. 

The Conservatory opened in 1921 filled with fruits and flowers instead of the more popular exotic tropical foliage. Heat, water and power systems were hidden in tunnels so as not to detract from the grandeur of the glass-covered rooms.

The main fountains atop a walkable two story building housing the massive pumps and water recycling units. The water show is set to music and lasts about 15 minutes. 

The stairway Falls and 61-500t stone Chimes Tower. In 1956, the original chimes were replaced with a 32-note electronic carillon, i.e., a set of stationary bells sounded by manual or pedal action, or by machinery. In 2000, a new 62-bell carillon was crafted in the Netherlands.

Italian Garden

The grandest of the Longwood Tree Houses, the Canopy Cathedral was inspired by a Norwegian church.